Matthew Norman at the Guardian struggled to remember the last time he found "a hidden gem quite as deeply buried" as Moran's, after a visit to the Sheffield restaurant.
The critic is truly surprised by the self-styled wine bar in a single-storey building in an unprepossessing parade in an affluent suburb of the city.
He applauds the quality of chef Bryan Moran's cooking and the patience of lone waitress Leila and predicts this is one business that will survive the recession.
Guide Girl, our restaurant blog, has news of Jamie Oliver being targeted by animal rights activists PETA.
By Chris Druce
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