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What's on the Menu? – A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

15 January 2009 by
What's on the Menu? – A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

Bloomberg, 9 January
Richard Vines visits Bob Bob Ricard at 1 Upper James Street, London W1, and Kettner's Restaurant & Bar at 29 Romilly Street, London W1
Shepherd's pie? Macaroni and cheese? Chicken curry? Someone at Bob Bob Ricard has decided now is the time for comfort food in London. Let me just pick up a packet of Jaffa Cakes and a cup of Ovaltine and consider the point. Yup. It works for me. I ordered a Farley's Rusk, Ginger Nut & Malteser milk shake shortly after entering this new brasserie on the site of Circus, in Soho. The place looks like a million dollars, which is probably what it cost as it's designed by David Collins, who's responsible for the Wolseley and Gordon Ramsay.

Metro, 13 January
Marina O'Loughlin visits The Double Club at 7 Torrens Street, London EC1

The man behind The Double Club, Carsten HÁ¶ller, is an unusual artist. Best known in London for the Tate Modern's hugely engaging slides, his work interacts at a visceral level with its audience - maybe something to do with his background as a biologist. And what could be more interactive - or, for that matter, biological - than a restaurant? Of course, this is no conventional restaurant. Situated in a dingy thoroughfare behind Angel Tube, it is - without fear of misusing that most hackneyed of words - quite unique. Backed by Fondazione Prada (Miuccia herself graced the sleb-studded launch party), it was initially to be called The Prada Congo Club.
The Double Club - review in full >>

Evening Standard, 14 January
David Sexton visits Boundary Restaurant and Bar at 2-4 Boundary Street, London E1

At 77, Sir Terence Conran isn't stopping. In his whacky "sort of autobiography", Q&A, he says "resting on laurels or indeed any other bush is not my idea of enjoying myself".
Boundary is his first new private venture since the opening of Bibendum in 1987. It's a joint undertaking with his wife Vicki and his new business partner, Peter Prescott, who was previously operations director of the Conran Group. This set-up has allowed him "to return to a very personal involvement in all aspects of the project", he says. Not half. Boundary is the supreme palais de Terence. It's the ideal of a restaurant he's been pursuing all these years - the fine white linen, the handsome flatware, the heavy creamy crockery, the simple but luxurious French food, the desert island wine list …
Boundary Restaurant and Bar - review in full >>

Time Out, 13 January
Guy Dimond visits Albion at the Boundary Project at 2-4 Boundary Street, London E2

The big daddy of London's restaurant revolution is back. The management buy-out of Conran Restaurants in 2006 - handing Quaglino's, Blue Print Café, Orrery et al over to the stewardship of D&D London - did not spell the end of Terence Conran as a restaurateur, as everyone predicted. Instead, over the last couple of years, Terence and his wife Vicki have been collaborating with their former operations director Peter Prescott on the new Boundary Project. Fittingly, its location is on Redchurch Street, Shoreditch, inside the shell of a former light industrial building; it's just across the street from Shoreditch House, the fashionable members' club, in what has become one of the most vogueish streets in London. Boundary Project looks, and is, an astonishingly professional operation in the otherwise dishevelled-looking Shoreditch. Albion is the ground floor 'caff' (their description), food shop and bakery; Boundary is the smarter French restaurant in the basement of the same building. In March, a rooftop bar-grill and hotel rooms will also open.
Albion at the Boundary Project - review in full >>

By Janet Harmer

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