Bounce-back burgers: meat alternatives do have a future, say suppliers

18 January 2024 by Will Hawkes

There has been much to worry the meat-alternative market recently, but Will Hawkes sees how plant-based still has its place

If meat alternatives are on the way out, no-one has told Umiami. The French company – inventor of a proprietary protein texturing process it calls "Umisation" – has raised an eye-watering £86m in recent years. Much of that has been spent on a huge former Unilever factory in Alsace, where up to 20,000 tons of "textured, gourmet plant-based fillets," will, they hope, soon be produced.

The French founders – Tristan Maurel, Martin Habfast and Clémence Pedraza – are cagey about what they use to make their product (although there are, they insist, "no controversial additives, no sugar, no texturing or colouring agents"). Others are more open. Creativity is the key when it comes to base substances for vegan alternatives, taking in algae, grain left over from the brewing process, wheat gluten, peas, tofu and much more.

Given all this energy, you might imagine the market is buoyant, but 2023 was a difficult year.

"Plant-based meat alternatives throughout Europe have been experiencing serious backlash in terms of volume growth and consumer perception over the past 18 months," is how a recent report from Dutch bank Rabobank's research arm put it, and with good reason. Most notably, Meatless Farm, one of the UK's poster boys for meat alternatives, collapsed in June 2023, although it was subsequently bought out of administration by VFC.

But there's still plenty of optimism. Some, like Stephen Nolan, chief executive of foodservice technology company Nutritics, are expecting the category to bounce back this year. "Meat-alternatives may have taken a hit in 2023, but this doesn't mean that meat-free is in decline," he insists. "In fact, we fully expect demand for plant-based, vegetarian and plant-forward dishes to grow throughout 2024 as consumers look to eat more healthily, limit their out-of-home spending and reduce their environmental impact."

Whether you agree or not, one thing is clear: there are plenty of meat alternatives for operators to get their teeth into. But is the public turning against these products in favour of meals where the ingredients are more clearly presented?

Going green

Algae, the sludgy green stuff that grows in limpid ponds, doesn't sound very appetising, but it apparently has much to recommend it. It requires far less land and water to grow and produces fewer greenhouse gas emissions than animal protein. It grows continuously and it can be harvested in greater numbers than other sources of plant-based protein.

"The World Economic Forum calculated that producing 1kg of beef-sourced essential amino acids requires 148,000 litres of fresh water and 125 sq m of fertile land," says Laura Taylor of food procurement company Allmanhall. "In contrast, producing the same amount from the microalgae nannochloropsis oculata, raised in an open pond with brackish water, requires only 20 litres of freshwater and 1.6 sq m of non-fertile land."

But before you get too excited about algae steaks, there are a number of obstacles, including the price, which compares very unfavourably to soya protein, for example, which is also used to make meat alternatives.

KaterVeg vegan mince sloppy Joe sandwiches

Other options are much further down the road. The world's biggest brewing company, AB InBev, is backing a project called Evergrain Ingredients, which aims to turn spent grain (grain that has been used to make beer and that is traditionally thrown away or used as animal feed) into vegan food products, including meat alternatives. Smaller breweries around the world, including Störtebeker, one of Germany's most forward-thinking beer-makers, are also investigating the possibilities.

Then there's Umiami. Umisation, the company claims, creates a more realistic, meat-like texture and also offers a minimally processed product from a very short list of ingredients. The procedure makes it possible to produce a whole, 100% plant-based thick fillet with fibres "resembling those of meat and reproducing that unique, gourmet sensation mouth feel," according to Maurel.

"Our process is the first in the world to be able to create, on a large scale, plant-based fillets that resemble pieces of animal meat, both in terms of flavour and texture," he says.

"Flexitarian, vegetarian and vegan consumers can enjoy [them]. It's a tasty, protein-rich product that's ready to eat in just a few minutes." The company is currently in discussions with UK distributors.

There are, of course, a variety of options already available, including chicken substitutes such as QuornPro's ChiQin range (which includes crispy buffalo wings and buttermilk-style burger vegan fillet) and Funnybones' chicken-free fillets, "a great option for plant-based customers who don't want to feel left out when friends are chowing down on a classic chicken burger," according to Tom Styman-Heighton, development chef at Funnybones Foodservice.

Beyond Meat, which claims to have seen "significant and positive growth" in the UK across Europe at the end of 2023, has recently released the Beyond Stack Burger in Greene King's Hungry Horse venues. "The Beyond Stack Burger features on the kids' menu, making it a nutritious and sustainable choice," says Steve Parsons, UK and Ireland foodservice manager. "I think there is still a really exciting opportunity for creating a great-tasting, plant-based kids' meal."

The company has also launched Beyond Steak into the UK. "It offers a huge amount of versatility for restaurants and pubs by offering a plant-based alternative to burritos, fajitas, pizza toppings or pan-Asian dishes," adds Parsons. "Our Beyond Steak is already receiving rave reviews and winning awards across the pond and has received certification from the American Heart Association's heart-check programme for being a heart-healthy food."

Impossible Foods is also enjoying success at Hungry Horse, according to Noel Clarke, senior vice-president of international at the company. "Our Impossible ‘Chicken' Nuggets saw 47% year-over-year growth in sales at Hungry Horse," he says. "Our priority is to make and serve products that make diners want to come back for more, which will help us continue to grow both our brand and the rest of the category."

Redefine Meat is equally bullish. Edwin Bark, senior vice-president, insists that factors from Brexit to the cost of living crisis have had an impact on the demand for alternative meat, but that the future remains bright. "There are so many benefits to having plant-based options on menus that we believe this isn't a permanent dip," he says.

"By increasing or introducing plant-based offerings, a restaurant immediately becomes a more accessible destination for a broader target market that includes meat-eaters, flexitarians and vegetarians, with a menu that can accommodate the broadest range of dietary requirements."

He suggests the company's pulled pork, pulled beef, minced beef and lamb kofta mix. "This year will be rich in innovation, both in terms of new whole cuts as well as other meat types," he says. "Ultimately, we will be able to recreate every cut of cow, pig or lamb."

Mince is one product where vegan options stack up reasonably well compared to the real thing. According to frozen food distributor Central Foods, a recent experiment at the University of Bristol saw various non-meat ingredients (such as jackfruit, soya, and mushrooms and lentils) added to traditional beef lasagne. Soya mince, apparently, was the option that most pleased students.

"Our KaterVeg! range of vegan mince, sausages and burgers is made from soya, which is a complete protein, containing all nine essential amino acids which the body needs but cannot make itself from other food sources," says Gordon Lauder, managing director of Central Foods.

Back to the land

There are plenty of educated observers, though, who think public tastes are moving towards less-processed products – a fact tacitly admitted by Umiami, whose promotional literature makes a feature of the fact that it contains fewer than 10 ingredients.

"Across the UK and Europe, one of the most prominent food-related behavioural trends in recent years has been the increase of fresh, whole food consumption, particularly fruit and vegetables," says Nele Van Avermaet, promotion manager of fruit and vegetables at Flanders' Agricultural Marketing Board (VLAM).

"With ultra-processed foods being the latest to be shunned, consumers are demanding the freshest and highest-quality produce. This is creating an opportunity for menu items where whole foods can take centre stage."

Middleton Foods, meanwhile, suggests its new vegan muffin and sponge mix. "Using an innovative combination of ingredients, our new vegan mix is a premium-quality, plant-based product made here in the UK," says foodservice manager Paul Stanley. "The simple-to-use, ready-made pre-mix ensures high quality and consistency that caterers can rely on to create tasty muffins or sponge, which consumers will love."

And then there's ‘dirty veganism', which caters to a hankering for fast food-style grub. "It's a growing trend, which allows for more indulgence and vegan treats which have previously been associated with non-vegan meals," says Louise Wagstaffe, senior culinary advisor for Premier Foods. "Approved by the Vegan Society, our award-winning Bisto Southern Style gravy is a perfect example of comfort food that can be served as a side dip, drizzled over loaded fries or presented with a plant-based feasting platter."

It all adds up to an intriguing mix in a year that could be decisive when it comes to meat alternatives. Will this be the year of Umiami or are meat alternatives really on the slide? Either way, it's a tasty prospect.